I suspect that some of you may be growing tired of viewing posts of my engine rebuild. I admit that it has been consuming much of the garage time, and space. However the end is in sight and the engine reassembly process is under way. Reassembly is always the best part of the job because by now all the dirty work has been done, parts have been sourced and inspected, and the time consuming process of coating and polishing has been completed. This is the point were I get to see the previous efforts pay off.

Here are my rebuild partners, Clymer, OEM, and Parts

Bench cleaned off, tools ready to go, let the games begin!

The disappointing part of it all is that the satisfying rebuild is rather short lived. These motorcycle engines are not complicated nor do they have very many parts that make them tick. This is the part of the job that I wished would take a little more time thereby extending the enjoyment factor.

Shifter forks cleaned, lubed, and sliding free.

New bearing pressed onto the transmission main and counter shafts. The shaft splines have been cleaned and deburred and the shift hubs slide freely.

Anyway…I managed to get the case assembled with the transmission and crank in place. I had previously opted to get rid of the kick starter and solely rely on either the electric start or a push start. I left the entire kick starter shaft out of the case and therefore required a plug to take its place. My concern is that there would be too much oil splash through the empty kick starter hole that would cause an excess of oil to spill into the right side cover. I machined up a spool type looking plug that will act as an oil stop.

Machining an internal case kick starter shaft plug out of 1.000″ 6061 aluminum. The kick starter shaft will not be getting installed and therefore this plug will control oil flow to the right side engine case cover.

Kick starter block off plug installed. The 2 case halves sandwiched together will help keep the plug put.

With the upper and lower case halves sealed I was able to work on the left and right sides. The clutch, oil pump, oil filter, primary drive, starter drive, clutch linkage, shifter linkage, and stator were all assembled. Running through all the gears by hand confirmed that with some transmission RPM the shifting should work smoothly.

Crankshaft now in, one final check over, hopefully everything is in place. Time to seal the case halves together.

I included this shot of all my polished components since I need to start dipping into my stash in order to bolt the cases together.

So the bulk of this post is going to be recited by the pictures. The bottom end of the engine is complete and I will move onto the upper end. Hopefully things will go as smooth for the second half.

Left side of engine with seals installed. Ready for the stator and starter chain install.

Right side of engine with the shifter linkage installed. You can see the kickstarter block off plug installed.

The clutch, oil filter, oil pump, and primary gears all mounted onto the right side of the engine.

The starter was completely disassembled, the steel components powder coated and the aluminum polished.

Starter assembly reassembled.

Starter mounted in place.

Stator and starting sprocket/chain in place. The clutch pushrod was polished as was the drive sprocket. It will be disappointing to see chain oil deposited on all the clean engine parts once the bike is running.

  1. disapyr says:

    This looks like a piece of art. I’d put it in display in my living room. Amazing work!

    • gordsgarage says:

      Thanks disapyr, I could look at pictures of this stuff all day. If it’s metal and mechanical it’s worthy of a place in my heart. Wait till I post the pics of the completed assembly. Perhaps I will offer framed enlargments. 🙂


  2. Doug says:

    Gord You’ve really done a great job and I look forward to seeing the completed bike. One quick question, cam chain is it one continuous loop or is there a master link? reason I ask is I don’t see it in the second to the last picture and the case halves are assembled.

    • gordsgarage says:

      Thanks Doug. The cam chain does have a master link plus there is an access plate on the underside of the lower case half that allows the cahin to be fed onto the crank sprocket. That would have really sucked for me if it didn’t. I am unsure if having a master link is common for bikes, I know it is not for automotives.


      • Kristof says:

        Nice work. Really impressed with your powder coating. I wonder what is the size of the owen you are using.
        As for master links in cam chains .. they are used in motorcycles, however they are not recommended. The links should not use spring retainer but should be crimped like rivets. You are working on low power engine so it should be OK.

      • gordsgarage says:

        Hi Kristrof, thanks for the words, the powder coating worked out well. I am using a standard houeshold oven, I believe it’s the typical 30″ width (outside). I did not measure the inside dimensions. It is a bit tight for some projects however I was lucky enough to be able to fit all my engine parts in it.

        Thanks for the info on the t-chain links. The CB160 has the typical spring retainer, I was unaware of the crimp style upgrade, thanks. I agree with you that with an output of 16.5 hp the spring retainer should be fine, it has lasted this long.


  3. meetlucille says:

    Gord, two quick questions:
    1. Your preference for the liquid gasket (make and source, CT?)
    2. Hardware. I have found and installed the bolts in black (Bolts+), but in 5mm increments, meaning 32s had to changed to 35 or 30mm where necessary. Retail or online order?


    • gordsgarage says:

      Hey Andrew,

      The case sealant that I use is called HondaBond, made by Honda. I bought it at my local Honda motorcyle dealer, I think it cost me $11.00.

      I replaced all my case bolts with allen head stainless steel hardware purchased from a local supplier. I used Greggs Distributers which is Western Canadas competitor with Acklands. The hardware is available as you have stated, in 5mm increments. I had run a thread chaser through all my case bolts to clean up the deeper threads that never got touched by the factory bolt lengths. I then measured every hole with my caliper to determine the length required. I did not worry about obtaining the factory engineered lengths. Every bolt is grabbing onto plenty of thread.


  4. Reblogged this on Velmoto Customs and commented:
    Here is a guy doing exactly what I like to see, way to go Gord. Keep up the good work.

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