Archive for April, 2013

Title mirror

So I continue to work my way through the FJR1300 Gen III retrofit project. Previously I was able to machine the name plate and LED light holder that would eventually get mounted to the back of the Pelican case. Next it was onto building a Pelican Case mount as well as try and come up with some way of mounting a couple of Clearwater LED driving lights.

I continue to strive for professional looking results and when mounting accessories to the bike it is important to blend the mounts in with the flow of the bikes lines. Nothing looks worse then something that simply doesn’t appear to belong. Subtle and discrete is usually a good thing and the less flashy and obtrusive I make it I think the better it will look.

So as my dad and I search for a place to mount the front auxiliary LED lights to it soon becomes evident that there are not too many options, at least none that would look good. Finally settled on trying to fabricate a couple of brackets that will get sandwiched between the base of the mirror mounts and the fairing. After much looking and measuring it would appear that the odds may work in my favor. Although I wasn’t convinced the plan would come together in the end there was enough evidence presented that would suggest the efforts verses the failure ratio was one worth pursuing.

So the bike was hauled into my garage and the fabricating began. I had a basic idea of what I wanted to accomplish however the aspect that complicated it all was I was working with 3 odd ball X Y, Z, angles. The angle of the mirror mount was situated in such a way that I needed to compensate for the angles and build a bracket that would eventually be square, plumb, and level.

I stock old cereal boxes in my garage because the cardboard is good for building templates from. So I began by building a cardboard sample of the LED light bracket in order to help determine the angles that would be required. Once I mocked up the cardboard I switched over to a scrap piece of steel and build a crude mount to ensure my efforts would not be wasted. Once I determined the proper angles I began building to good brackets.

As far as the mounting of the Pelican case I simple machined some spacers to fit in place of the existing factory rack hold down hardware locations. I cut the spacers at an angle to ensure that the mounting of the case would remain parallel with the back rack.

Once everything was fabricated the complete works got a glass bead blasting and then everything was fogged with some matte black powder coating. In the end I think the completed project worked out well. The front lights look super clean and super factory looking. The matte black finishing blends everything into the bike and prevents things from standing out as thought they don’t belong. My dad is happy and has since taken back possession of his bike and has everything wired up and working. He put his first 100km on his new bike today and was happy to report that everything is working 100%. On with the pictures…

Cheat arbor

I built a cheater arbor to help speed up the set up when needing to mill a radius. The arbor is a chunk of cold rolled round bar with the same radius as I require. I center the rotary table to the mill head and then clamp down my work piece once I have my arbor lined up. It isn’t highly accurate but I would guess that I am within .010″.

Bracket radius

Here are the results of my laziness. The radiusing of the mirror spaces work out great. They were cut from 1″ x .250″ 6061 aluminum.

6061 Mirror spacers

Here are my roughed out mirror base spacers. The black base gasket shows some resemblance, this is good.

Bracket taking shape

This is one of my good LED light mount brackets starting to take shape. I scribe my bend angles with a cut off wheel. This way I get a super clean inside bend line and it allows me to weld the exposed cut on the outside of the bend and clean it up. It not only adds strength but also looks ultra pro.

Bracket leveling

Much time was spend mocking up the brackets to ensure that my X,Y, and Z coordinates were all on even planes. Here I got within .50 degrees of level.

Perpendicular measurement

The lights will be adjustable vertically but not horizontally therefore the brackets need to be fabbed accurately. I used a couple of squraes and a staright edge to help determine what the “straight ahead” position.

Cutting vert adjusters

Before I performed the final bend on the brackets I milled out the adjustment slots to allow for vertical adjustment of the LED lights.

Bracket basics

Here sit all the LED light components minus the final bend, and trimming, of the brackets.

Bending bracket angles

Final bends. All that remains is welding and grinding of the scribe lines.

Wire channel test

In order to make the bracket look super clean I needed to be able to hide the wiring. I milled a channel into the base spacer plates and the drilled a hole in order to feed the LED wiring in under the mirror assemblies.

Brackets and spacers blasted

So here you have it, all the fabricated components glass bead blasted and ready for powder coating. I never posted pics of the Pelican case spacers however it is fairly obvious that I spun them up on the lather out of aluminum.

1st batch coated

First batch of matte black powder coated components.

Plate epoxy

With the Pelican case plate coated I was able to epoxy on the “Iron Butt” name plates.

Pelican case spacers

Here the Pelican Case spacers are installed on the rear of the FJR’s rack.

Pelican case support

A side shot of the mounted Pelican Case shows how the angled spacers allow the case to run parallel with the factory rack. Looks clean.

Completed Butt plate 4

The case gets bolted to the spacers from the inside. In order to accomodate the parallel fit some angled washers were machined.

Completed Butt plate 3

This is the inside shot of the mounted name plate. The 2 center studs were machined out to allow for hiding of the LED wires.

Completed Butt plate 1

Light bracket 1

Light bracket 3

This shows the routing of the wires in behind the mirror base. There is still a plastic fairing cover the dash assembly.

Light bracket 2

Tucking the wiring of the lights in under the mirror mounts worked great.

Mounted lights

Completed Butt plate 2

Title pocket

My dad is an avid motorcycle rider and has been riding Yamaha’s FJ series bikes for 20 years. He has been waiting patiently for the Gen III to come out and finally in 2013 Yamaha released the FJR1300 update. So after some wheeling and dealing he was able to score himself a new FJR to replace his previous model.

He does lots of long distance riding and is a member of the Iron Butt Association. When doing long distances there are certain modifications that get done to the bikes to help improve certain aspects, and characteristics, of the bike. One of those mods fall under the safety category. In the case of my dad’s preferences he is a big believer in outfitting the bike with highly visible LED lighting to help other motorists be able to see him. He also likes to run extra storage space and so along with the factory side cases he also runs a water proof Pelican Case on the back rack.

So what does this all equate to for me? Basically it comes down to coming up a way to mount LED brake lights, a Pelican case , and a couple of LED auxiliary driving lights to the new FJR. In addition to the required equipment my dad requested that I incorporate an “Iron Butt” license plate frame into the rear lights. He left the decision making up to me so I came up with something that I would hope meet his expectations.

I am spiltting this project up into 2 postings. The first one is the building of the rear bracket. The next posting will run you through the mounting of the Pelican case as well as the fabrication of the front LED lights. Enjoy.

Starting with

Here is what I was supplied with for the rear of the bike. The Pelican case will need to get mounted to the back rack and then a the LED strip lights and license plate frame will need to be attached to the case. The license plate frame is made for USA motorcycle plates. Canadian plates are a different size therefore I will use it in conjunction with the LEDs.

Plate trimming 1

I started by cutting up the license plate frame and cleaning it up on the mill.

Plate trimming 2

Here I was able to square it up perfectly.

Plate trimming 3

This is what is left with of the plate frame. At least now I have some badges I can work with.

Plate game plan

With the Iron Butt name plates and the LED dimensions known I was able to draw up a master plate idea in AutoCad.

Knocking of .500

I used 3/8″ x 4″ 6061 aluminum stock to machine the LED mount from. Since the plan called for a 3.5″ width I opted to trim .500″ off using the plasma.

Edge clean up

Once the plate was plasma cut I squared up all four edges using the mill.

Milling corners

Next all the corners where machined up and notched out.

Milling plate pockets

My plan called for pocketing out 4 areas to inset and flush mount the LEDs and plate frame name badges.

Pockets complete

Here the plate has been rough machined. All AutoCad dimensions worked out perfectly and a test fit shows that all components link together great.

Drilling mounts

The rear of the bracket had 4 mounting holes drilled and tapped and then another 4 holes drilled to allow for “Iron Butt” name plate removal should it be required.

Loomed studs

I machined some 8mm mounting studs that will allow the bracket to bolt onto the rear of the Pelican Case. On the center two studs I drilled holes to allow for routing of the LED witing.

Completed plate machining

This is the roughed out bracket. The plan is to powder coat it flat black yet to help it blend into the Pelican Case. The Black will allow the name plates, and LEDs, to “pop”

Title front end

So I was able to continue my auspuff progress on the CB160. The preliminary leg work had been accomplished and it was time to start cuttin’ and buttin’ stainless pipe together to make a structure that will hopefully represent a 2 into 1 exhaust system.

The plan was to make the “lines” of the exhaust flow with the bike and give it as much of a clean look as possible. I continued to work with the bike turned upside down as I had previously done when modifying the center stand. I am not sure how much I can say about the whole process other then it takes a lot of “looking” and “figuring” to make sure everything is just right.

I have included bonus pictures in this particular post which shows a major screw up on my part. I was able to dissect my mistake and fix it however the thoughts associated with my lack of planning still continue to haunt me. Anyway…look on and follow along as I eventually ended up with a completed exhaust system for the 65 Revive project.

Tacking down tubes

Laying out and tacking up both header pipes to ensure that they are both identical.

Collecter tacking

Tacking the collector to the 1.500″ outlet pipe which will help me line things up on the bike.

Collecter to headers 1

Starting to piece the header pipes to the collector assembly.

Tacked pipe take 1

Here is the “2” into 1 section all tacked up. I placed the collector in a particular spot in order to allow access to both oil drain plugs.

Ashamed and embarrassed

And here is my screw up. I cannot believe that I did this. For some reason I neglected to presicely place my collector assembly. I have no idea why I just “guessed” at its position. As you can see the exhasut angle under the bike look hideous.

Starting over

So here is attempt number 2. Good thing I only tacked the pipes together. This time I measured and clamped the collector assmebly in its proper position.

Collecter to headers 2

With the header pipes measured out and bolted in symmetrically and with the collector placed properly I began cutting pipe and fitting pipe in order to join the 2 sections together.

Tacked pipe take 2

It’s already looking better. Hopefully round 2 will prove to be successful.

Yeah Baby!

Way better, completely happy with the “angle on the dangle” on this one. The flow looks great. I like how the lines of the underside exhaust matches the angle of the seat frame.

Pipe final welding 1

With the exhaust tacked and tested it was time to perform the final TIG welds.

Pipe final welding 2

I back purged all my welds and they all worked out fine.

Muffler angle mock up

It was time to keep going with the elbow and angle required for mounting of the muffler. Here I used various supports to help hold the muffler in place so that I could stand back and get a good visual.

Completed 2 into 1

With the muffler angle figured out I cut and welded the remaining pipe. With the exception of a support bracket this is the final product.

Pipe install 2

Here is a shot of the completed and installed exhaust. I think the lines and shape worked out great. Don’t mind the orange elastic bands as they are only there to keep the exhaust flanges from sliding down the pipe while I was welding and installing.

Pipe install 1

And here is the final look. I still have yet to weld, or clamp, the mufller (I haven’t decided yet). I also need to install a bracket however this too has to wait for variuos reasons. My intent from the start was not to grind and brush the welds. I wanted to go for a raw and racey look so I think I am going to leave the welds exposed. I’ll let it sit for awhile and see how I feel.