Archive for the ‘Milling machine’ Category

152 Title piston

Every once and awhile I will cruise through my blog postings just to take stock of what I have posted in the past and therefore I am able to plan for the future. I am the sole editor of all my posts. I review the post before I publish it, I ensure all the links work, the pictures will blow up to full size, and the grammar and spelling are correct. The reason I am telling you this is because I can’t believe how many spelling mistakes I catch when reviewing my work once it has already been published. So in this posting I am offering up an apology in my obvious downfall as an editor. I will continue to try and improve however I suspect I will always miss a certain number of spelling and grammatical errors. I realize it probably does not bother most of you but it bugs me. There…I said it, let’s move on.

As my blog will show I have spent the majority of my garage time working on my 65revive project. There are still times when I fit in side projects and usually it is something that is functional and not worth posting. The other day I was in need of a thank you gift for a friend who helped me out with a few things so I thought I would build one. I wanted something cool but I wasn’t able to commit a weeks’ worth of time to the project. After some pondering I came up with an idea that allowed the task to be accomplished in an evening yet still have a bit of wow factor. The following pictures will run through the 4 hour build process of what turned out to be a thank you for much appreciated help.

152 BMW piston

Started out with an old BMW piston I had laying around.

152 Initial clean up

I performed an initial clean up on the lathe using 320 grit sandpaper and Scotchbite.

152 Starter hole

Next I moved onto the milling machine to center the piston out and drill a starter hole.

152 Milling slot

Next step was to mill out a slot large enough to hold a stack of business cards. I milled just far enough to allow the pin bosses to act as some internal card support.

152 Trimming base

I needed to build a base in order to seal the bottom off that way if the card holder is picked up the cards won’t fall out the bottom. I rough cut a circle out of .375″ plate 6061 aluminum using the plasma torch.

152 Machined to fit

With the disc rough cut I was able to machine it down to final dimensions on the lathe.I made it to be a press fit into the piston base.

152 Bottom blasted

With all the “construction” completed it was time to move onto the finsihing phase. Here the top of the piston got taped off and the bottom half was glass bead blasted.

152 Top polished

Now the bottom section gets taped and the top half gets a 3 stage polishing.

152 Powder coated

It was time to now fog the bottom with matte black powder coating and slide it into the oven for a 15 minute heat soak at 375 degrees.

152 Completed holder

Finished product. It’s not a work of art but it is functional and kind of cool.


Title Porsche heads

So the blog has been suffering over the past few months. I challenge myself to hone my time management skills and usually I do it fairly well. However ever since spring hit it has been a struggle to juggle all the work that needs to be done. Something had to give and unfortunately it was the blog. The garage projects continue to happen however the blog postings have not.

Even though I am still feeling the pressures I figured I better just suck it up and post something. So here it is. I had spent the last couple months catching up on summer yard projects. With the completion of the outdoor fireplace last year it was time to pick up a load of birch for burning. I had a temporary firewood holder made from 2×4 lumber and decided it was time to rework it and build it out of metal.

Wood holder

About 4 summers ago I had built a “built in” BBQ with a full stone surround and tile top. Over the past years the tile has taken a beating. With the constant freezing and thawing over the winter the tiles started lifting and the top was in need of a rebuild. So this spring I stripped the tile top off and built a steel one out of 10 gauge. I bent all 4 sides, built a couple accent handles, and then powder coated it matte black.

BBQ top

Next was onto the deck skirting. The deck was built about 5 years ago and I had always planned closing up the lower section. I stash my spare aluminum under the deck and my better half was tired of looking at it. So the deck skirting got done, no metal, all lumber in order to match the rest.

Deck skirting

One of the garage projects I got side tracked on was some cylinder head machining for a friend’s 1973 Porsche 911. He acquired the car about a year ago and it needed a top end rebuilt so he stripped it down and upon inspection all the heads requires some repair. On the air cooled Porsche 911 engines it is common for the cylinder head sealing ring the wear a groove into the head itself. Typically this happens on the exhaust port side. The fix is to machine off about .010” on sealing surface of the head. Since the head is stepped machining of the step is also required as the same amount needs to be removed from the head surface and the step.

Gasket ridge

Here you can see the groove that gets worn into the cylinder head sealing surface. Always on the exhaust side.

When he approached me my initial reaction is that I am not set up to do this kind of machining. But as I pondered the details a little more I figured I may be able to pull it off. It was a challenge so I was game. I had warned him that he will be on the hook for any “money” mistakes I make. He already had another set of heads lined up for $2500 just in case my risky venture didn’t turn out.

In the end the heads turned out great. It took a lot of time, careful set up, and repeated measuring but I was fairly pleased with the results. I’ll work you through the process using the visual format. Let’s continue…

Combustion chamber center

The project began by having to build an adapter in order to mount the heads to the lathe. I started off by finding the center of the combustion chamber. I was just barely able to grab the edges of the combustion chamber step in the jaws of my lathe chuck. Now I was able to spin the head up and mark the center on the opposite side.

Milling machine center

With the center marked I transferred the head over to the milling machine in order to continue measuring for an adapter.

Stud centers

I machined an aluminum center finder in order to locate the exact center of the studs. using my DRO I was able to measure, within .0001″, the spacing between the center of the combustion chamber and the 2 studs that straddles it.

Lathe head adapter

With all the dimensions calculate the rest was simple. Using a 3.5 inch chunk of 1014 steel I machined up a precision adapter that would bolt to the studs on the head and, in turn, allow me to center the combustion chamber on the lathe.

Heads blasted

With the adapter built it was time to clean the heads up. Before machining they all got run through the bead blaster to get pulverized with #80 Aluminum Oxide

Ready to cut

Heads are clean and ready to cut!

Here goes nothin'

The heads just barely fit on my little Craftex B227 lathe. I set up a dial indicator in order to monitor my cuts a bit more closely.

The following is a video I shot cutting the heads. To many of you it may seem kinda boring but for me I think it’s pretty cool. Unfortunately YouTube cuts the quality down therefore the video is a bit choppy. I spun the heads up to just over 1600 RPM in order to perform the cutting.

Dial indicator adapter

I built a dial indicator holder in order to mount the tool into the 1/2″ collet of my milling machine.

Measuring step

Here is where the time consuming part comes in. I needed to perform 2 careful measurements. First one was the step. I was shooting for .100″ as that is what the factory spec was. I didn’t use the dial indicator as the measuring tool, I simple used it as a zero point and then performed all my readings using the DRO.

DRO head measuring

The Z axis of my DRO was the scale that did the measuring. All I did was use the Z axis of the milling machine to adjust my dial indicator to zero. then I was able to read my measurement off from the DRO. Here my machined step is well within spec.

Measuring head width

My second measurement involved having to measure the over head height. I built a crude gauge block seen in this picture sitting on top of the vise. I would zero my dial indicator and DRO Z axis to the gauge block. Then I had a base point in order to reference all my other heads to. This dimension is incredibly crucial as a one piece cam housing sits across three of the heads. If the head dimensions aren’t equal then stresses will be placed on the cam and cam housing.

Head dimensions

Lots and lots of measuring, here is 2 of 5 pages worth.

Completed head machining

And here is the finished product. .010″ shaved of cylinder head gasket surface as well as the deck. Just enough to clean up the groove.

6 completed heads

Happy to say I got all 6 heads done and dimensioned with no “money” mistakes.

Title pocket

My dad is an avid motorcycle rider and has been riding Yamaha’s FJ series bikes for 20 years. He has been waiting patiently for the Gen III to come out and finally in 2013 Yamaha released the FJR1300 update. So after some wheeling and dealing he was able to score himself a new FJR to replace his previous model.

He does lots of long distance riding and is a member of the Iron Butt Association. When doing long distances there are certain modifications that get done to the bikes to help improve certain aspects, and characteristics, of the bike. One of those mods fall under the safety category. In the case of my dad’s preferences he is a big believer in outfitting the bike with highly visible LED lighting to help other motorists be able to see him. He also likes to run extra storage space and so along with the factory side cases he also runs a water proof Pelican Case on the back rack.

So what does this all equate to for me? Basically it comes down to coming up a way to mount LED brake lights, a Pelican case , and a couple of LED auxiliary driving lights to the new FJR. In addition to the required equipment my dad requested that I incorporate an “Iron Butt” license plate frame into the rear lights. He left the decision making up to me so I came up with something that I would hope meet his expectations.

I am spiltting this project up into 2 postings. The first one is the building of the rear bracket. The next posting will run you through the mounting of the Pelican case as well as the fabrication of the front LED lights. Enjoy.

Starting with

Here is what I was supplied with for the rear of the bike. The Pelican case will need to get mounted to the back rack and then a the LED strip lights and license plate frame will need to be attached to the case. The license plate frame is made for USA motorcycle plates. Canadian plates are a different size therefore I will use it in conjunction with the LEDs.

Plate trimming 1

I started by cutting up the license plate frame and cleaning it up on the mill.

Plate trimming 2

Here I was able to square it up perfectly.

Plate trimming 3

This is what is left with of the plate frame. At least now I have some badges I can work with.

Plate game plan

With the Iron Butt name plates and the LED dimensions known I was able to draw up a master plate idea in AutoCad.

Knocking of .500

I used 3/8″ x 4″ 6061 aluminum stock to machine the LED mount from. Since the plan called for a 3.5″ width I opted to trim .500″ off using the plasma.

Edge clean up

Once the plate was plasma cut I squared up all four edges using the mill.

Milling corners

Next all the corners where machined up and notched out.

Milling plate pockets

My plan called for pocketing out 4 areas to inset and flush mount the LEDs and plate frame name badges.

Pockets complete

Here the plate has been rough machined. All AutoCad dimensions worked out perfectly and a test fit shows that all components link together great.

Drilling mounts

The rear of the bracket had 4 mounting holes drilled and tapped and then another 4 holes drilled to allow for “Iron Butt” name plate removal should it be required.

Loomed studs

I machined some 8mm mounting studs that will allow the bracket to bolt onto the rear of the Pelican Case. On the center two studs I drilled holes to allow for routing of the LED witing.

Completed plate machining

This is the roughed out bracket. The plan is to powder coat it flat black yet to help it blend into the Pelican Case. The Black will allow the name plates, and LEDs, to “pop”

Title milling

Moving along with the Porsche themed PCCB dual monitor stand I decided I would add on an extra bit-o-bling. I was able to get my hands on a Porsche alloy wheel center cap and wanted to incorporate it into the stand somehow. I thought I would use the cap as dual purpose and decided to mount the emblem onto the monitor side of the stand but also create some functionality to it. Since this stand is being used in a place of business I thought an integrated business card holder would do the trick.

I wanted to mount the cap to the card holder and design the holder with similar motorsport look, feel, and finish as the rest of the project. I went off to the metal shop and got my hands on a small section of 3.5” solid round 6061 aluminum. My plan was to mill out the back of the aluminum in order to fit a stack of business cards in it. The front would get cut on the lathe to allow for flush mounting of the center cap. The back will then get capped with a steel disc held on by a motorsport looking set of stainless steel Allen head 5mm bolts.

So as with my previous posts I am going to run the same format and use photo captions to help outline what I was trying to accomplish. I also thought that I would include some screen shots of my Sino DRO (digital read out) from my milling machine. The math functions are super cool and I grin from ear to ear when I get to use it. For those who are not familiar with DROs, and their functions, you may find it interesting. I love using that thing. Anyway…on with it!

Center cap and 6061

Here is a shot of my starting materials. A factory Porsche center cap and a chunk-o-6061

Center cap mod

The plastic tabs that secure the cap to the alloy wheel are going to need to be removed. A cut off wheel and some sanding made quick work of it.

Center cap bezel

I machined out the center of the 3.5″ aluminum of the lathe. It was cut just enough to allow a press fit of the center cap.

Perimeter milled

Next I moved onto the milling machine and started to hog out the backside to allow for a stack of business cards to fit. I machined the perimeter first using a .250″ end mill. I wanted to ensure the bottom corner radiuses were fairly tight so that the corners of the business cards would not be strained.

Business card pocket

With the perimeter cut I took the remaining material out with a .500″ 4 flute endmill.

Roughed out backing plate

It was time to move onto the backing plate. I plasma cut a circle out of some scrap steel and cleaned the edge up best as possible on the belt sander. I then drill a hole through the center (which will get filled later) and bolted the plate to the aluminum to allow for more precise clean up.

Backing plate clean up

Here I was able to mount up on the lathe and clean up the backing plate perfectly.


So the next 7 pictures are screen shots of the DRO on the milling machine. My plan is to drill 6 evenly spaced holes close to the perimeter of the steel backing plate. Using the DROs math function I am able to program the dimensions and then let the DRO do the thinking. The first step is to enter the PCD function. I am unsure what exactly PCD stands for however it is refered to as the Circular Arc Dividing Function (PCD Function)


Next I need to tell the DRO where the center of my circle is. I have already set my X and Y table to the center of my steel plate and zero’d the machine therefore my center co-ordinated are X=0 and Y=0


Next I need enter the diameter of the circle which the center of the holes will be drilled around. In my case a 2.90″ diameter circle will inset the Allen head bolts perfectly.


Next I need to state how many holes I am drilling. There are 2 ways of doing this. In my case I want to drill 6 even holes. So why do I enter 7? The reason is evident in the next 2 steps. I choose 7 because I am going to drill around 360 degrees which means my 7th hole will actually end up exactly where my first hole started. I could choose to enter 6 holes however then I will need to program to drill only 300 degrees. Follow me?


So this is where I dictate how many degrees I am dealing with as well as my starting point. My intent is to start at 0 degrees which, in CAD programs, is aways at the 3 o’clock position.


My finishing angle with be full circle and therefore is 360 degreees. When using 360 degrees I always need to add one extra hole therefore this is why I choose 7 holes. I could perform the same math function by choosing 6 holes but then my end angle would need to be entered in as 300 degrees.

NO 5

And here is what the machine spits out. This is a shot of the 5th hole co-ordinates. All I need to do is dial my X and Y table to 0 co-ordinates and the machine is set in proper position to drill my 5th hole. I can continually toggle among holes 1 through 7 as need be. That it! Takes about 30 seconds to program and the rest is giggle time.

Drilled and tapped

Here is the final shot of my 6 evenly spaced holes. I ran the DRO through the drilling sequence 3 times. First was to mark the holes with a centering bit, next was to drill, and the 3rd time ws to tap. Perfect results.

Card holder plate

Here is my “motorsport” look using stainless Allen head 5mm bolts.

Roughed out holder rear

I built a discreet littl perch to hold the assembly up at an angle. The perch will also allow for mounting of the holder onto the front of the monitor stand. The steel backing plate will get powder coated to match the monitor stand.

Roughed out holder front

And here is the roughed out final product. The aluminum still needs some touch up but overall it came out nice. Fairly clean lines, nothing “over the top”

I was able to get my hands on a 3 axis DRO (digital read out) for the RF-45 clone mill. I have never had any experience with these units however I have only ever heard good things about DROs on mills. I currently have some milling jobs in the brainstorm and early design queue so I figured I would take the time now to get the mill in peak running state.

The DRO system I obtained is a Chinabuilt SINO SDS6-3V 3 axis unit. I was able to obtain the user manual for the system before I decided to buy and had spent time determining if I would be capable of using the system. The manual translation is a bit rough and it takes some mental work to decifier what is being explained however I figured once I could get my hands on the system and work with it I was going to achieve success. The manual contains no installation instructions as these systems are a universal fit and therefore it relies on the ingenuity of the installer to ensure it is going to fit.

So this blog posting is nothing more then a documentation of pictures showing my installation. I had attempted to find pictures and information on how others have done the install however I had no luck. I decided that with nothing to go on I was going to wing it and see what I could come up with. I was very pleased with the install and I am not sure I would have done it any differently. I am sure there are other ways of doing it, and perhaps better ways, however at this point I will plead ignorance. I decided I would post some pictures in hopes that it will help others who are planning to perform an install. Perhaps the information found here will either show others what to, or not to, do.

The basic concept is that there are 3 linear scales that need to be mounted to the mill. One scale for each axis X, Y, and Z. The criteria for the mounting is as follows; 1. The scales cannot affect the operation of the machine in any way. They cannot be mounted in such a way that it limits adjustment knobs or travel. They also cannot impede machine maintenance such as lubrication points of the ways or gearbox oil changes. 2. They need to be mounted rigidly as to maintain the accuracy of the readout. The biggest challenge was the Z axis. 3. The scales need to be as protected as possible from any oil, coolant, or metal contamination.

So off I went to start drilling and tapping holes into the mills castings. The DRO came with a few universal aluminum brackets; I was only able to use one for the Y axis. I ended up having to fabricate a total of three other adapters to get all the scales mounted.

I’ll let the pictures tell the story. It took me approximately 4 evenings to do the complete install and in the end I think it was 4 evenings well spent. I am happy with the rigidity of all the scales. The Z axis scale, the one that gets exposed to the worst vibrations, seems to be holding fairly accurate. Since the install I have spent a few hours educating myself with all the math functions. The DRO is more then just a readout as it can also help to perform accurate machining functions such as circle drilling, radiusing corners, center finding, drilling evenly space holes along an oblique line, plus a whole range of other functions. I was able to successfully get my way through many of the functions. Perhaps I’ll save my new found knowledge for another posting.

The Y axis needed a bracket made to connect the scale to the supplied aluminum adapter. Using a chunk of scrap channel I milled a bracket to attach to the Y table.

These are the three completed brackets that I built for both the X and Z axis. I left the quill clamp in the picture to show how the aluminum adapter fastens. The rigidity of the Z axis bracket was a concern however the use of 3/8" aluminum plate seemed to do the trick.

I was able to neatly bolt the X scale onto the back of the compound table. The scale is out of the way and protected.

A complete picture of the Y axis was difficult to take. This is the top view of the Y scale bracket mounted to the Y table on the right side of the mill.

Here you can see the mounting of the Y scale on the left side of the machine. The factory aluminum bracket goes up and connects to my fabricated steel bracket. Rigidity is not a problem with the Y scale.

The 3/8" aluminum plate bolted to the quill clamp was the right choice. It looks clean and is out of the way. The angle cut towards the left rear of the bracket allows me to still drain the gearbox oil.

The Z scale was tucked in behind the vertical feed controls. It's mounting still allows me to access the nut required to angle the machines head.

The final picture is of the plate I built in order to mount the control panel arm to a wall stud.

As with each winter season that passes it would appear that the snow season is also the season for new shop tooling and equipment. I don’t plan it that way it just always seems to end up being the time everything comes together. Well this season is no exception. With the introduction of the RF-45 clone milling machine that entered the family last year it has been a slow, on going, exhaustive researching process of getting the tooling set up for the unit.

I have been in the market for a decent vise to sit perched on top of the compound table. After spending much time on the forums trying to decipher what I should be looking for in a vise it pretty much came down to “don’t cheap out”. Cheap vises are cheap for a reason and although I have no experience with any milling machine vise it would stand to reason that your machined products will only be as precise as the equipment you use. I soon found the name “Kurt” popping up everywhere and realized that Kurt is the granddaddy of all milling vises. That’s great however I am not a production machine shop, is the cost of a Kurt realistic for a home shop guy like myself? As I continued to research I started to read more and more about the Glacern product line. I had previously purchased a Glacern R8 drill chuck for the mill and was quit impressed with the quality. Nicely machined product with smooth operation and yet for a decent price. As I read more I decided that the Glacern GSV-690 vise is the way to go. The finish looked good and I found no bad reviews on them. The price was better then Kurt plus Glacern’s swivel table was priced much lower then Kurt’s.

So here comes the pain. I’m in Canada and finding a Glacern distributor within the great white North’s borders is hard to do. Shipping cross border is a pain and I was fearful that the cost associated with the weight was going to exceed the cost of the vise. There is a company in the Eastern end of the country that does distribute some of the Glacern’s products including the GSV-690 vise I wanted. So this is the point in the story where I care not to elaborate. I have chosen to bury the painful details of dealing with this company so all I will say that after waiting almost a year to get this vise I was faced with yet another hiccup that would deny me another chance of getting my hands on the unit. It turns out the straw that broke the camels back was that the distributor was out of stock as was Glacern. The distributer tried to sell me Glacern’s Premium GPV-615 6” vise however it was not the one I wanted. The premium vise is still a very nice vise however its opening capacity was slightly smaller and although it was ground in such a way that it could be mounted on the side there was still no swivel base available for it.

I sat for days feeling defeated. I was able to buy directly from Glacern however there website confirmed what I was already told; they are out of stock. This has gone on far too long but now was not the time to give up. My next move proved to be the winner. I felt as though I had finally found the door that opened to sunshine meadows filled with flowers and butterflies with the von Trapp children skipping to the tune of Do-Re-Mi. I emailed Glacern customer service to enquire when they would expect to have stock on the units. Within minutes Dave Warren, from Glacern, responded. He had checked with the stock department and they actually had one in stock. It was mine if I wanted it. Wadda mean if? So with tool adrenalin flowing and sweaty palms I quickly responded with “you had me at “in stock”” and a “yeah I want it”. Do you ship to Canada? How much is the journey gonna set me back? Well the transportation fees were quoted at $159, not as bad I thought considering the set up came in at 105 pounds. What choice do I have? This is the best shot I got so I decided to stop thinking about it and make it happen.

But how? 10 minutes ago Glacern’s on line ordering showed 0 in stock and I would be unable to add one to my cart. Well it turns out that things can happen in 10 minutes time and now the Glacern site showed the GSV-690 vise in stock. Fantastic! Added one to my cart and while I was browsing I tossed a swivel base into the mix as well. Went to the checkout, calculated my shipping costs, hmmm…only $144. Sweet!!!! Handed over my 16 digits and I was off to the races. I had looked back to see if Glacern still showed the vise in stock, nope, no more to be had now. Filled with excitement I had to email Dave back to relay my giddiness and say a big thanks!

When I emailed Dave with the thanks and with one more question, however at this point his answer could not change what just happened. It had to do with shipping. I thought to myself “please, please, please, I hope they don’t ship UPS. Not UPS. Please not UPS. Anything but UPS, tie it to the back of a turtle, point it North and I’ll wait, I promise. UPS brokerage fees are killer!  So Dave? What is it? Do you ship UPS? Come on Dave…respond to the email. The 4th email we had exchanged wasn’t quite up to the response time I had come to expect. It took him about an hour this time! 🙂 Well there was good reason for it. Apparently Glacern does ship UPS. NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! But wait, calm down and read on. Glacern is aware of how UPS likes to take advantage of us Canuks and they are working towards a solution. Dave, being the hero he is, had been in discussions with his supervisor and as a one time favor for this being my first order they applied a coupon code that would relieve me of all the brokerage fees. First thoughts? Rock on!!!! Second thoughts? Is this too good to be true? I had better wait till UPS lugs the vise onto my doorstep and asks for nothing more than a signature. Well that they did! No money required and the whining that usually comes from me actually came from the UPS driver about how heavy the package was that he had to wrestle with.

So where does this leave things? I’ll tell you where. It leaves me with a brand new GSV-690 vise, with swivel base, straight from Glacern Tools with zero UPS fees. What have I got to complain about? Nothing! Let’s move onto the good stuff…you know…the shiny precision machined tooling.

Well I am not one to critique a milling vise since I have very little experience with them. However the Glacern, upon visual inspection, is a fine piece of tooling. I was concerned that a 6 inch vise would be slightly large for the RF-45 clones table however I think it was the correct choice.  The vise comes with centering tabs located on the underside to allow for centering of the vise on the table. In the case of my table the centering tabs are too large. No big deal. I removed the tabs for now so that the vise would sit flat on the compound table and at a later date I will mill the tabs down to fit my table. The feel of the lead screw is smooth and precise. The vise even came with a slideable metal shield that covers the threads to protect them from the milling debris.

In the end I will never know f I would have been better off with a different choice of vise. I now own a Glacern and it’s the new addition to the family that is going be with us through lots of projects. I am thrilled with the quality and even more thrilled with the service and support form Glacern. I think I reached the top with this one.

Ram tough? Not as tough as hard core cyclists. A riding friend of mine approached me with an idea for a small project to help spruce up his winter beater. This winter season he found himself battling the snow drifts in an older Dodge Ram 4×4. Being an avid cyclist he wanted to bring out a bit of his personality in his vehicle. So it was decided that the ram hood ornament was going to be replaced with a mountain bike handlebar assembly.

The plan was to machine a perch that would bolt to the original hood ornament mount. The perch would allow for the mounting of a stubby steering stem. The original ram head was spring mounted. Since the handle bar assembly would weigh significantly more then the aluminum ram it was decided to incorporate solid mounting of the perch.

The build was fairly simple, the pictures tell the tale. A section of 1.375” solid round 6061 aluminum was chucked up on the mill and a centering slot was machined. The slot was designed to ensure the perch would not pivot which in turn would have put the bars off center.

The rest of the work was done on the lathe. The perch was machined with a built in stem cap. The idea behind it was to prevent theft of the stem. The stem would need to be mounted onto the perch first and then the perch bolted to the hood from the inside. Since the hood is latched, with an inside release, one would not be able to remove the perch. This, of course, does not prevent someone from unbolting the bar from the stem…not my problem.

In order to provide a bit more support for the whole assembly a smaller bushing was machined to give some strength from the underside of the hood. The completed perch was then taken to the buffing wheel and finished with a mirror shine to match the rest of the mount. In the end I think the perch worked out great. My fiend still has yet to piece the whole show together however it is guaranteed to add some personality to his ride and will keep him dreaming about the trails to come in drier months.